This is a combination of a few different trips I've made out to John's Canyon for bikepacking into some fairly remote sections of Cedar Mesa. The new Bear's Ears National Monument includes Cedar Mesa, but the actual bike trail is within the boundaries of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. While you can drive a few miles further (high clearance/4x4), I prefer to park near where the road crosses John's Canyon creek. It is also a nice 15-mile ride from the nearest paved road in the vicinity of Goosenecks State Park, which would add another pleasant day of riding each way, as this is an out-and-back route.
I am a little hesitant in publicizing locations like this. Archaeological sites are all over the place. If you decide to travel out here, please familiarize yourself with the Visit With Respect guidelines developed by the Friends of Cedar Mesa. This is a remote desert environment, so prepare accordingly. All of these trips were done in the fall and winter, during cold weather. Spring and summer temps can be extreme. Even temperatures in the 80s can feel much hotter because there is very little shade to be found. There is usually a trickle of water flowing in the little creek coming down from the sizeable John's Canyon. Besides this there is no reliable source of water until the trail meets the San Juan River at Slickhorn canyon. If there has been a lot of precipitation recently, you will have no problem finding water in some of the side canyons coming down off Cedar Mesa, but if there has been a drought, forget it. On my most recent trip, I carried 9 liters of water for a 3-day, 2-night trip with highs in the 40s and lows in the teens and 20s. I finished with less than a liter left in my water bag.
On one trip I brought my 11-month-old Husky/Sheppard mix Rusty. This was right around Halloween, and I still had to worry about him overheating. I think he may have consumed more water than I did, even though he's only half my weight. Most of the trails on Cedar Mesa prohibit pets, but since this old road falls within a National Recreation Area its ok to bring your dogs, just take proper care of them.
Starting at John's creek it is about 16 miles to Slickhorn canyon. This might not sound like far on a bike, but the road conditions deteriorate more and more the farther you go. Some people take their pack rafts and paddle the flatwater section of the San Juan down to the Clay Hills take-out. Sand, steep unrideable sections and rock piles that you have to get off and wrestle your fully loaded bike over become more and more common the farther you go. While I hiked the whole way to Slickhorn in my younger days, I am thankful for the access afforded by a bicycle. This trip gets you out to a very remote, scenic, and historically rich location.
On my most recent trip, I went solo with the goal of accessing a canyon we had not been able to access from above. The bike would allow me to get to the mouth of the canyon with much less effort than hiking. I would camp at the mouth, then pack a backpack and hike up the next day to spend a further night up in the canyon. As it turned out, I came to a big pour-off only about a mile up the canyon. I scrambled up the 4th class crumbly rock section without my pack (barely) and determined that it would not be wise for me to attempt it with my full backpack, especially given the fact I was all by myself in a very remote location. I did find some incredible petroglyphs near the mouth of the canyon (see below), which, for me, made the whole trip worthwhile.
Bike notes: I recommend either a fat bike or "plus" (2.8 - 3.0) size tires. Use a mountain bike! I would definitely not ride a "gravel" bike on this route, too much sand and soft stuff.
I am a little hesitant in publicizing locations like this. Archaeological sites are all over the place. If you decide to travel out here, please familiarize yourself with the Visit With Respect guidelines developed by the Friends of Cedar Mesa. This is a remote desert environment, so prepare accordingly. All of these trips were done in the fall and winter, during cold weather. Spring and summer temps can be extreme. Even temperatures in the 80s can feel much hotter because there is very little shade to be found. There is usually a trickle of water flowing in the little creek coming down from the sizeable John's Canyon. Besides this there is no reliable source of water until the trail meets the San Juan River at Slickhorn canyon. If there has been a lot of precipitation recently, you will have no problem finding water in some of the side canyons coming down off Cedar Mesa, but if there has been a drought, forget it. On my most recent trip, I carried 9 liters of water for a 3-day, 2-night trip with highs in the 40s and lows in the teens and 20s. I finished with less than a liter left in my water bag.
On one trip I brought my 11-month-old Husky/Sheppard mix Rusty. This was right around Halloween, and I still had to worry about him overheating. I think he may have consumed more water than I did, even though he's only half my weight. Most of the trails on Cedar Mesa prohibit pets, but since this old road falls within a National Recreation Area its ok to bring your dogs, just take proper care of them.
Starting at John's creek it is about 16 miles to Slickhorn canyon. This might not sound like far on a bike, but the road conditions deteriorate more and more the farther you go. Some people take their pack rafts and paddle the flatwater section of the San Juan down to the Clay Hills take-out. Sand, steep unrideable sections and rock piles that you have to get off and wrestle your fully loaded bike over become more and more common the farther you go. While I hiked the whole way to Slickhorn in my younger days, I am thankful for the access afforded by a bicycle. This trip gets you out to a very remote, scenic, and historically rich location.
On my most recent trip, I went solo with the goal of accessing a canyon we had not been able to access from above. The bike would allow me to get to the mouth of the canyon with much less effort than hiking. I would camp at the mouth, then pack a backpack and hike up the next day to spend a further night up in the canyon. As it turned out, I came to a big pour-off only about a mile up the canyon. I scrambled up the 4th class crumbly rock section without my pack (barely) and determined that it would not be wise for me to attempt it with my full backpack, especially given the fact I was all by myself in a very remote location. I did find some incredible petroglyphs near the mouth of the canyon (see below), which, for me, made the whole trip worthwhile.
Bike notes: I recommend either a fat bike or "plus" (2.8 - 3.0) size tires. Use a mountain bike! I would definitely not ride a "gravel" bike on this route, too much sand and soft stuff.
John and Nadine of Dzil Ta'ah Adventures. They lead trips to this and other locations on and around the Dine' Nation.
Getting ready for a cold night out.
This campsite is further down.
Some of the petroglyphs along the way. Every time I've come, I see rock art I had not seen before.
Found a little spring up a side canyon. "We're SAVED!!!"